I have designed all boards for myself with no direct earning intentions at this point. However, parts for projects purchased in single quantities can cost a lot of money, especially PCBs, enclosures, transformers, and high-performance semiconductors. Therefore, I would be really happy to get some money back to put into new ideas and designs I have in mind. Unfortunately I cannot offer fully assembled boards at the moment but I can offer bare PCBs to more experienced builders. Occasionally I also have partly or fully populated boards I have used in my tests.
My current stock
Purchasing instructions are at the end. Postage fees will be added. PCBs go in normal letter, some assembled boards may require small parcel. I will check the fees when you contact me regarding your order.
H-DAC board (4 layers)
H-DAC fully assembled board for AC supply, one Toslink, one coaxial, and USB inputs. All opamps are LM4562. This was the main board for all H-DAC measurements.
12 VAC at least 1 A power supply is required. Note that regulators get very hot if not mounted on chassis or proper heatsink! Can be used with DC supply as well although electrolytics are overkill for that.
No USB connector or PCB screw connectors next to RCA populated. Ask for these if you need.
H-DAC partly assembled board
Populated: TPS73633 and REG103 regulators, 22 uF tantalums for LM29xx regulators, PCM1794A, analog stage with NE5532 at I/V stage and LM4562 at differential amplifier (see measurements for this board), with necessary external components (see photo).
Addon BalOut board (4 layers)
Addon BalOut fully assembled board with LME49724, used for all BalOut measurements.
Addon BalOut fully assembled board with OPA1632 (and optional filter and protection components), used in LME49724 vs OPA1632 measurements.
Addon H-PreAmp board (4 layers)
Addon H-PreAmp board with microcontroller and required components for Arduino compatibility. Arduino bootloader programmed.
Addon H-Filter board
Addon H-Filter fully assembled board except no potentiometer. NE5532 opamps on sockets.
Dual Trafo Board. Make sure your transformers are the same pinout and understand that you are dealing with potentially lethal voltages!
Simple PSU 3 board
Simple PSU 3 fully assembled for +5V/+12V/-12V, includes screws and spacers (the right height for mounting the regulators on chassis)
Smart PSU 3 board
Includes diodes soldered because silk screen symbols are wrong way.
Smart PSU 3 board with microcontroller and required components for Arduino compatibility, Arduino bootloader programmed.
Where do I get the components?
I get almost all my electronic components from Mouser. Some parts are not available there, for example Linear Technologies’ components. Those I have ordered from Digi-Key which should have almost all components as well. I have provided Mouser part numbers in BOMs. Mouser have worked well at least when ordering to Finland and the UK. You get free shipping for orders above £33, you pay VAT to them when ordering, and they handle all customs (there are no customs fees for electronic components at least in the EU) for you. Despite coming from the US, delivery is very fast – I usually get the parcel in 2 days from ordering. Digi-Key works pretty much the same way.
Enclosures I mostly get from eBay and custom front/back panels from Schaeffer AG. I do not recommend getting electronic parts from eBay as there seems to be lots of fake components.
Do you have assembly and test instructions?
I do not have detailed instructions for each board as I expect someone buying a bare PCB to have relevant electronics skills. However, there are some general assembly instructions. Generally speaking, you should be fine with schematics, component placements, and PCB images.
If you have questions or face problems, contact me. When I get questions asked I will understand what is unclear and can add some FAQs.
Why only DIY-unfriendly SMD parts?
Simply performance and cost. SMD components have better performance largely due to their smaller packages and leads, for example inductance of SMD-capacitor is significantly smaller than its through-hole counterpart. The smaller the better but I do try to choose larger SMD-packages if available. My normal passive component size is 0805 but I may use 1206 and 0603 as well.
Not only smaller packages are cheaper but the space saved on board saves money on PCB costs. And again, more compact design means shorter traces and better performance.
Larger SMD-parts are not difficult to solder at all and I encourage all DIYers to learn. Watch YouTube videos and get hands-on experience. Just do not fry your components (which does not happen easily) or destroy your PCB traces (can happen quite easily) and always check the soldering before powering up the board.
Not many high-performance parts are even available in through-hole packages.
I do understand some of the smaller SMD parts are tricky to solder for less experienced hobbyists. Therefore, I can solder some trickier parts for you if requested. I can also populate some passive components you do not have.
Offering kits of boards with SMD-components is simply not practical. Sorting the components would take too much time and it is also very easy to make mistakes.
No fully assembled boards?
At least not yet except some boards I have hand-soldered for my own tests and measurements and do not need anymore.
One day I would like to offer populated boards but that would require more engineering work and also personal investments to manufacture batches of boards. Maybe one day…
How to buy?
- Before buying I expect that you:
- Have good enough electronics skills to build your board and debug it if required
- Also understand the aspects of electrical safety, especially if your device uses mains voltage
- Understand that I will not be responsible if something goes wrong; this may be damage to your speakers or even electric shock
- Before paying, contact me and let me know:
- What boards you would like to have
- Do you want me to solder some components for you (for component price plus small fee)
- Where do you live so I can figure out the postage fee
- I will reply you typically within a day, giving the status of components and price.
- If I have the products, you can pay via PayPal (or bank transfer to the UK or Finland). If I do not have them, I will give you an estimate how quickly I can get them for you to decide if you want to proceed.
- After payment I will send you the products as soon as I can, normally within 1-2 days if I have them.
After all this, feel free to contact me if you have any issues. I will also be glad to hear your success with your projects.