I have designed most boards for myself with no profits in mind. However, parts for projects purchased in single quantities can cost a lot of money, especially PCBs, enclosures, transformers, and high-performance semiconductors. Therefore, I would be really happy to get some money back to put into new ideas and designs I have in mind. Unfortunately I cannot offer fully assembled boards at the moment but I can offer bare PCBs to more experienced builders. Occasionally I also have partly or fully populated boards I have used in my tests.
Hopefully soon (possibly early 2019) I will be able to offer more fully or partly assembled boards.
My current stock
Purchasing instructions are at the end. Postage fees will be added. PCBs go in a normal letter, assembled boards may require a small parcel. I will check the fees when you contact me regarding your order.
I have also purchased a bit larger number of following components and can sell you a few along with your PCB order if you wish: NE5532 and LM4562 opamps, Neutrik NC3MBH-1 XLR male.
Addon BalOut v2.0
A set of fully populated boards available, all with LM4562 opamps.
This is simplified in a way that some components are left out and some shorted for simple single-ended input and balanced output. This provides not only simpler design but also even slightly lower noise. Population is per this simplified schematics, compare to the original one to see component differences.
With XLRs £29 (3 pcs in stock)
Without XLRs £21 (3 pcs in stock)
Fully populated simplified PCB, version B (one opamp), 6dB gain.
With XLRs £24 (1 pc in stock)
Fully populated original version A (one opamp), gain 0 dB. Takes in single-ended or differential signal.
Like the A version in the original schematics except slightly different resistor values, 1k = 1k21 and 47 = 51.1. Also has the output protection components populated.
With XLRs, £25 (1 pc in stock)
Bare PCB only
£6 (2 pcs in stock)
HP Buf (4 layers)
H-DAC board (4 layers)
H-DAC fully assembled board for AC supply, one Toslink, one coaxial, and USB inputs. All opamps are LM4562. This was the main board for all H-DAC measurements.
12 VAC at least 1 A power supply is required. Note that regulators get very hot if not mounted on chassis or proper heatsink! Can be used with DC supply as well although electrolytics are overkill for that.
No USB connector or PCB screw connectors next to RCA populated. Ask for these if you need.
Addon H-PreAmp (4 layers)
Dual Trafo Board
Make sure your transformers are the same pinout and understand that you are dealing with potentially lethal voltages!
Simple PSU 3 board
Simple PSU 3 fully assembled for +5V/+12V/-12V, includes screws and spacers (the right height for mounting the regulators on chassis)
Smart PSU 3
Includes diodes soldered because silk screen symbols are wrong way.
Where do you get the components?
I get almost all my electronic components from Mouser. Some parts are not available there, for example Linear Technologies’ and AKM components. Those I have ordered from Digi-Key who should have almost all components as well. I have provided Mouser (and sometimes Digikey) part numbers in the BOMs. Mouser have worked well at least when ordering to Finland and the UK. You get free shipping for orders above £33, you pay VAT on them when ordering, and they handle all customs (there are no customs fees for electronic components at least in the EU) for you. Despite coming from the US, delivery is very fast – I get the parcel in 2-3 days from ordering. Digi-Key works pretty much the same way.
Enclosures I mostly get from eBay and custom front/back panels from Schaeffer AG. I do not recommend getting electronic parts from eBay as there seems to be lots of fake components.
Do you have assembly and test instructions?
I do not have detailed instructions for each board as I expect someone buying a bare PCB to have relevant electronics skills. However, there are some general assembly instructions. Generally speaking, you should be fine with schematics, component placements, and PCB images. Until recently I did not add reference designators on silk screen so populating those boards requires a bit more attention using component placement files. Newer boards have reference designators on silk screen.
If you have questions or face problems, contact me. When I get questions asked I will understand what is unclear and can add more FAQs.
Why only DIY-unfriendly SMD parts?
Simply performance, cost, and availability. SMD components have better performance largely due to their smaller packages and leads, for example inductance of SMD-capacitor is significantly smaller than its through-hole counterpart. The smaller the better but I do try to choose larger SMD-packages if available. My normal passive component size is 0805 but I may use 1206 and 0603 as well.
Not only smaller packages are cheaper but the space saved on board saves money on PCB costs. And again, more compact design means shorter traces and better performance.
Not many high-performance parts are even available in through-hole packages.
SMD-parts, at least the larger ones, are not difficult to solder at all and I encourage all DIYers to learn. Watch YouTube videos and get hands-on experience. Just do not fry your components (which does not happen easily) or destroy your PCB traces (can happen quite easily) and always check the soldering before powering up the board. Using extra flux makes soldering a lot easier.
I do understand some of the smaller SMD parts are tricky to solder for less experienced hobbyists. Therefore, I can solder some trickier parts for you if requested and if I have the part. I can also populate some passive components you do not have.
Offering kits of boards with SMD-components is simply not practical. Sorting the components would take too much time and it is also very easy to make mistakes. As many parts don’t even have any values on them, sorting out those mistakes can be very tricky.
No fully assembled boards?
At least not yet except some boards I have hand-soldered for my own tests and measurements and do not need anymore.
I am planning on trying to manufacture small batches of some upcoming projects. This will likely happen somewhere around the end of 2018 or beginning of 2019.
How to buy?
- Before buying I expect that you:
- Have good enough electronics skills to build your board and debug it if required
- Also understand the aspects of electrical safety, especially if your device uses mains voltage
- Understand that I will not be responsible if something goes wrong; this may be damage to your speakers or even electric shock
- Before paying, contact me and let me know:
- What boards you would like to have
- Do you want me to solder some components for you (for component price plus small fee)
- Where do you live so I can figure out the postage fee
- I will reply you typically within a day, giving the status of components and price.
- If I have the products, you can pay via PayPal (or bank transfer to the UK or Finland). If I do not have them, I will give you an estimate how quickly I can get them for you to decide if you want to proceed.
- After payment I will send you the products as soon as I can, normally within 1-2 days if I have them.
After all this, feel free to contact me if you have any issues. I will also be glad to hear your success with your projects!